Visiting Sana’a, Yemen: A Personal Travel Diary from 2014 (Updated January 2026)
Nicole’s captivating account details her solo trip to Sana’a in January/February 2014, just before Yemen’s civil war escalated. She explored the ancient Old City, Dar al-Hajar palace, Saleh Mosque, and vibrant souks amid welcoming locals and unique architecture—gingerbread-like towers and intricate Qamaria windows.
Iconic gingerbread-style towers of Old Sana’a
Highlights from the 2014 Trip
- Dar al-Hajar (Rock Palace) → Built in the 1930s on a dramatic rock outcrop in Wadi Dhahr—stunning views and intricate interiors.
Dar al-Hajar rising from the wadi
- Saleh Mosque → Controversial yet breathtaking modern mosque with ornate domes and interiors.
Opulent interior of Al-Saleh Mosque
- Old Sana’a & Bab al-Yemen → UNESCO-listed labyrinth of souks, spice markets, and towering homes; sunset from the gate was magical.
Bab al-Yemen gate and bustling souk
Yemeni hospitality shone through—shared tea, communal meals like salta and malawah, and insights into qat culture and women’s lives under abayas.
Current Status (January 2026): Travel Strongly Advised Against
Sana’a remains under Houthi control amid Yemen’s ongoing civil war (since 2014). A fragile truce holds in parts, but sporadic clashes, airstrikes, terrorism risks (AQAP/ISIS), kidnappings, and humanitarian crises persist.
- All major governments (US, UK, Canada, Australia) advise against all travel to Yemen, including Sana’a. Level 4: Do Not Travel (US State Dept, renewed Dec 2025).
- Tourist visas → Suspended for Houthi areas; no official tourism infrastructure.
- Access → Extremely difficult/risky; rare reports of arrests/detention for foreigners.
Limited tourism occurs in southern regions (e.g., Hadhramaut via Seiyun flights) or Socotra Island with specialist operators. Sana’a remains inaccessible for regular travelers.
This diary captures a fleeting moment when Yemen’s wonders were more reachable. The people, architecture, and culture endure—hopefully peace returns soon.
Questions about historical Yemen travel or safer alternatives (like Oman’s similar vibes)? Ask below!