Apamea, Syria: A Forgotten Gem of the Roman World
Apamea, Syria: A Forgotten Gem of the Roman World was originally published in 2025
Home to one of the longest colonnaded streets in the Roman Empire and among the largest amphitheaters of antiquity, Apamea has remained largely forgotten, oft overlooked by the scant visitors who do make it to Syria.
Most opt instead for the grandeur of Palmyra or the preserved black basalt of Bosra. And while those ancient sites are jaw-dropping in their own right, it was Apamea that ended up stealing the show for me.
What stood out wasn’t just the staggering scale of the ruin, though yes, those colossal columns are enough to give you a neck ache from looking up, but the atmosphere of the area. There’s something about wandering through an ancient city, verdant slowly claimed back by nature, with hardly a soul in sight that’s both humbling and surreal.
And knowing that Cleopatra and Marc Anthony once strolled this very cardo on their honeymoon in 37 BC, probably plotting something scandalous under the Syrian sun, made it all the more cinematic.
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Why Visit Apamea (Afamea)?
If you’re a traveler who lives for ruins that feel lost to time, Apamea delivers in spades. Also known as Afamea in Arabic, the city dates back to the 3rd century BCE and flourished under the Seleucid Empire before the Romans left their architectural fingerprints all over the place.
At its peak, Apamea was a bustling military and trade hub, home to over half a million people, nearly double the population of the present-day city of Hama, just an hour down the road.
Apamea was a city of wealth, of intellect, of power. Philosophers debated, horse traders haggled, and Roman generals strutted down the marble-paved avenue like they owned the place. And for a while, they kind of did.
Key Features of Apamea
- Great Colonnade: This is Apamea’s main thoroughfare, stretching nearly 2 kilometers from the north to the south gate. It’s one of the longest colonnaded streets in the Roman world.
- Roman Theatre: Situated near the colonnade, this theatre is among the largest surviving from the Roman Empire, with an estimated seating capacity exceeding 20,000.
- Agora: The public square or marketplace, located near the intersection of the main roads.
- Decumanus Maximus: The main east-west street that intersects with the Great Colonnade.
- Public Buildings: Including baths, temples, and churches, many of which are clustered around the central intersection of the cardo and decumanus.
Wandering the Colonnaded Street of Apamea
Let’s talk about that street.
Stretching nearly 2 kilometers in length, Apamea’s colonnaded avenue is a showstopper. Each column stands nearly 9 meters tall, some still upright after centuries of earthquakes, invasions, and time’s general indifference. It’s one of the longest surviving colonnades from the Roman world, and it’s absolutely mesmerizing.
As you walk it, surrounded by fields and the occasional shepherd, you can almost hear the echo of sandals slapping marble, the buzz of ancient commerce, the clang of a centurion’s armor.
The Amphitheater of Apamea
Often overshadowed by Palmyra’s grand theater or Bosra’s basalt beauty, Apamea’s Amphitheater is quietly colossal. Though still partially excavated, it’s believed to be one of the largest in the Roman world, with seating for up to 20,000 spectators. Today, it’s mostly empty, save for the occasional archaeologist or curious traveler (hi, it’s me), but the bones of a mighty performance space are all there, and you don’t need a stage production to feel the drama.
Current Conditions: Can You Visit Apamea Today?
This post has been sitting in my drafts since my 2024 visit to Apamea. And yes, you can visit Apamea today. That said, from March 2025 to present there have been troubles with bandits in the area, with several reports of tourists being robbed of cash and valuables. So that said, I would recommend deferring your visit to Apamea until things settle down.
Apamea sits in northwest Syria near the modern town of Qalaat al Madiq. As always with Syria travel, it’s best to go with a local guide who understands the current situation on the ground and can navigate permissions.
When we visited, the site was quiet, no ticket booths, no vendors, no crowds. Just a vast stretch of ruins under a blue Syrian sky, waiting for someone to appreciate them again. There’s something raw and powerful about that kind of solitude, especially in a place with this much historical heft.
How to Get to Apamea
We visited Apamea en route from Damascus to Aleppo, which makes a great stopping point for stretching your legs for one of Syria’s most impressive ancient gems. From Damascus, Apamea is about a four drive, and from Aleppo, roughly two hours.
For those staying a night in Syria’s city of Hama, famed for its Norias (water wheels), it’s about a one-hour drive to Apamea (Afamea), and the route winds through farmland and gentle hills, passing kids waving from bicycles and roadside fruit stands.
Your best bet is to hire a local driver or go with a tour company that’s running Syria trips, as they’ll help with logistics and local know-how. Roads are in decent shape, and the drive itself is scenic and mellow.
Tips for Visiting Apamea
- Wear solid shoes. The terrain is uneven, with loose stones and overgrown patches. Roman ruins weren’t exactly built for ergonomic strolling.
- Bring water and snacks. There are no facilities on-site, so come prepared like the savvy explorer you are.
- Hire a guide. The ruins don’t have signs or explanations, so having someone to walk you through Apamea’s layers of history really enhances the visit.
- Don’t rush it. This isn’t a place to tick off and move on. Give yourself time to wander, sit, and soak it in.
Thoughts on Apamea
If there’s one word I’d use to describe Apamea, it’s glorious, in a quiet, forgotten way that only ancient places can. Unlike heavily touristed ruins in other parts of the world, here you get space, silence, and soul. You can visit Apamea and have it almost entirely to yourself, walking in the footsteps of emperors, generals, and goddesses without jostling for a selfie spot.
Of all the sites I visited in Syria, Apamea was among my favorites. Not just for its sheer scale or significance, but for its haunting beauty. This is a place where time stretches out, history speaks in every breeze, and your imagination runs wild.
Have you been to Apamea, or have any questions about visiting Apamea?
Tell us your experience if you have had the opportunity to visit Apamea, and anyone who is contemplating a visit, ask you questions below in the comments section.
