Visiting the Painted Village of Zalipie, Poland
Visiting the Painted Village of Zalipie, Poland was originally published in March 2025
Needing to figure out a way to get a group of volunteers along with all of our supplies and gear across the border from Poland into Ukraine, questions were asked, phone calls were made, and we were put in contact with contacts of contacts and eventually, this led to us securing a 1990s Land Rover that was located in the parking lot of the Hotel & Restaurant Trzy Korony in the city of Rzeszów, Poland.
Perla and I met one evening in Kraków, I’d arrived earlier that morning. I asked if she wanted to grab dinner, long story short a couple of bowls of vareniki and a few shots of vodka later a lifelong friendship was forged by two strangers brought to this part of the world, one to do logistics and the other to provide her medical expertise.
A few days in, and a couple of days before the remainder of the group were set to arrive, we were tasked with sorting out a vehicle to get the lot of us and a bunch of supplies over the border. That’s when we were given a phone number to a man who said, go to the restaurant I’m going to send you the address to in Rzeszów and ask for Greg’s keys inside.
Sure enough, Big P (Perla) and I hopped a train from Kraków to Rzeszów one morning, went in, asked, and were tossed the keys to the dark green behemoth outside.
I had been aware of the colorful village of Zalipie and had seen that it was only a brief detour on the map on our way back to Kraków, and mind you, we were on this project on our own volition and self-funded (maybe one day I’ll tell the story of the bullsh*t artist known as Dennis Price and his scammy “NGO” he sent us with), so it was a detour on our own dime.
So, I veered off of the main A4, cutting across Poland and off to visit the colorful painted village of Zalipie.
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How did Zalipie become Poland’s Painted Village?
Over a century ago, the homes in Zalipie were heated by wood stoves but the house had no chimneys, so thick smoke would stain the walls inside and out with black soot.
Rather than live with soot-covered darkened walls, by the late 19th century, the women of Zalipie picked up their brushes and painted over the stains with bright, colorful flowers, turning a problem into a tradition.
These days, stains from wood stove smoke are no longer an issue, but Zalipie’s folk art lives on, now a cherished piece of the village’s unique identity.
Over the years of this practice, the paintings in Zalipie have only gotten brighter and more intricate, spreading far beyond just house walls. These days, you’ll find these colorful flowers on every corner of Zalipie life from chicken coops to tree trunks, furniture, clothing, and more.
When the tradition began in the early 19th century the paint brushes used were quite primitive, such as sticks from bitch or willow trees. Over time the brushes have evolved to being made of horsehair, a more refined brush, yielding the ability to create much more intricate floral designs.
Malowana Chata
Nearly every year since 1948, Zalipie has hosted the Malowana Chata, which translates from Polish to Painted Cottage, a competition that judges who has the best-painted cottage in Zalipie.
Malowana Chata is Poland’s longest-running folk art contest, with the 62nd edition set for June 2025.
The event keeps the tradition alive, encouraging locals to keep their homes blooming with vibrant floral designs.
Every spring, right after Corpus Christi Feast in June, villagers from Zalipie and the surrounding countryside pick up their brushes, refresh old paintings, and create new masterpieces on their homes, barns, and even beehives. By Sunday, winners are announced, and the whole village gathers for a Zalipiański Festyn, a lively picnic celebrating their colorful works.
Houses and Places to Visit in Zalipie
Dom Malarek (Painter’s House)
The Dom Malarek, Painter’s House in Polish, is a museum dedicated to Zalipie’s folk art scene. This little museum tells the story of the Zalipie’s floral traditions, including an exhibition about the Malowana Chata competition, and even has souvenirs if you want to take a piece of Zalipie home with you.
Dom Malarek even offers art workshops and try your hand at painting the iconic flowers yourself.
Hours & entry fees: Entry is free. Open June-September from 8 am-4 pm Monday-Friday and 11 am-4 pm on the weekends. From October-May from 8 am-4 pm Monday-Friday, closed on weekends.
Felicja Curyłowa’s Farm House
Felicja Curyłowa was a local woman who took Zalipie’s floral tradition to a whole new level. While she didn’t invent the idea, she embraced it, covering nearly every inch of her three-bedroom farmhouse in hand-painted flowers. Even the plates, spoons, and light bulbs weren’t safe from her brush.
After her passing in 1974, her home was preserved as an open-air museum, where you can still admire her incredible work today.
Curyłowa’s talent wasn’t just limited to her own home, she also painted the interior of Wierzynek, one of Kraków’s most famous restaurants, and even the dining room of the MS Batory cruise ship.
Hours & entry fees: Entry is 12 PLN, tours are held on the hour. Open May-September from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday-Sunday, closed Mondays and from October-April from 9 am to 5 pm Tuesday-Sunday, closed Mondays.
St Joseph’s Church
Even inside St Joseph’s Church, you will find Zalipie’s famous floral motifs. From the alters to the priest’s robes you can see Zalipie’s colorful flowers permeating the religious site.
How to get to Zalipie
Zalipie is located 90 kilometers northeast of Kraków and there are no direct public transport options.
The easiest way to reach Zalipie is to rent a car and drive yourself. It’s about 1 hour 40 minutes drive from Kraków.
If you’re hellbent on making it to Zalipie on public transport, you can get the train from Kraków to Tarnów and then from Tarnów take a bus from Tarnów to Zalipie. The train will cost about 29-46 PLN (one way) and the bus will cost 6 PLN (one way).
Where to Stay back in Kraków
Dizzy Daisy Hostel is a great pick for backpackers with clean dorm rooms at a great price. Located just north of Stare Miasto (Kraków Old Town), about 10 minute walk to Rynek Główny (Kraków’s Main Square).
Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto is a perfect option for those on a midrange budget wanting the convenience of staying right next door to Kraków Główny Railway Station and having only about a 15 minute walk to reach Stare Miasto.
Finally, for those on higher budgets wanting a more luxurious experience, there are a couple of great options in the Stare Miasto. The Bonerowski Palace Boutique Hotel will wow with its views directly onto Rynek Główny. The Balthazar Design Hotel, located a bit on the southern end of the Stare Miasto, has stunning interior design that mixes vintage and modern.
Where to Stay back in Tarnów
Those who are road-tripping around Poland may opt to stay a little closer to Zalipie, in the nearby city of Tarnów, located about 40 minutes away from Zalipie.
Two great options in Tarnów are the centrally located Aparthotel Zakątna B&B and the beautiful Hotel Gal, located in a historical building, next to Józef Jakubowski Park.
Have any questions about visiting Zalipie?
Ask in the comments section below.