Ishkar & Ceramics in Istalif, Afghanistan (Updated January 2026)
Istalif (also spelled Estalif or Istalef) is a historic village on the Shomali Plain, about 45–60 km north of Kabul. For centuries it has been famous for its distinctive handmade pottery — turquoise-glazed ceramics with intricate floral and geometric designs. The craft is a family tradition passed down through generations, using local clay and the plant-based glaze called ishkar (or ashkār), derived from a desert shrub that gives the characteristic blue-green color.
The village was severely damaged during the civil war in the 1990s and again in 2001, when it was heavily bombed. Since then, Istalif has slowly rebuilt, and pottery production has revived as a key source of income. Many families still live from the craft, and the small bazaar along the main street is lined with workshops and shops selling bowls, plates, vases, and decorative items.
Current Situation (January 2026)
Travel to Istalif is currently considered extremely high-risk and strongly discouraged.
- The security situation in the Shomali Plain (Kapisa and Parwan provinces) remains volatile. Taliban fighters, local militias, and occasional ISKP activity have led to sporadic clashes and checkpoints.
- Kabul itself is under tight Taliban control, but foreigners are highly visible and face significant risks of detention, kidnapping, or worse.
- No reputable tour operators currently offer trips to Istalif or the surrounding region. Most Western governments maintain Level 4: Do Not Travel advisories for all of Afghanistan.
If the situation were to improve significantly in the future, the village could once again become a pleasant half-day trip from Kabul. Until then, it is not a realistic or safe destination.
What Made Istalif Special (Pre-2021 Descriptions)
When it was still accessible, visitors typically experienced:
- The bazaar: A quiet street of small pottery shops where families demonstrate wheel-throwing, glazing, and firing techniques. Prices were very affordable (a large bowl might cost $5–15 USD).
- Workshops: Many potters worked openly in front of their shops. The process involves shaping on a foot-powered wheel, drying, applying the ishkar glaze, and firing in traditional kilns.
- Scenery: Terraced orchards (cherries, mulberries, grapes), mountain views, and shaded chaikhanas along the Istalif River.
- Atmosphere: A peaceful contrast to Kabul — though already subdued in 2021 due to security concerns.
How to Get There (Historical Information Only)
- By taxi: Private car from Kabul ≈ 1,500–2,500 Afs one way (≈ $20–30 USD). Arrange through a trusted driver or guesthouse.
- By public transport: Shared taxis/minibuses from Sarai Shomali bus station in northwest Kabul ≈ 100–200 Afs (not recommended for foreigners).
- Time: 45–90 minutes depending on traffic and checkpoints.
Practical Notes (When Travel Was Feasible)
- Best time: Spring (cherry blossoms) or early summer.
- What to buy: Bowls, plates, small vases. Bargain gently — prices were already low.
- Etiquette: Ask permission before photographing people at work.
- Combine with: Panjshir Valley or Bagram (both now also inaccessible).
For now, Istalif remains a beautiful memory and a symbol of Afghan resilience and craftsmanship. Hopefully one day it will again welcome visitors safely. In the meantime, similar pottery traditions can be seen in parts of Uzbekistan (e.g., Rishtan) or Tajikistan.
If you have questions about other destinations or safer alternatives, feel free to ask!