The Adventures of Nicole was invited to attend the 2024 World Nomad Games held in Astana and to work along with the Ministry of Tourism to promote Northern Kazakhstan, all opinions are her own.
Astana, A Guide to the Capital of Kazakhstan
Astana, A Guide to the Capital of Kazakhstan was originally published in 2024
All around, I’d have to give Astana a place on my weirdest cities in the world list, and as somewhat of a connoisseur of getting weird, I enjoyed my time in Astana.
Before my invitation for media coverage of the 2024 World Nomad Games, all I had heard of Astana was that it felt soulless, weird and empty, sterile and boring.
Now, I will admit that Astana does serve up a decent serving of weirdness, sprinkled with modernism and grandeur, I think the city has a cool vibe to it.
I got the sense that Astana is a young city. And no I’m not referring to its age despite that being effectively true at only 26 years old, I mean its population. Astana has attracted a young and optimistic crowd. Case and point: most everyone I worked with was in their mid-20s to mid-30s age-wise.
Although Astana may be giving Dubai, giving Ashgabat, giving Tirana– I still feel like it’s got its own character, it’s coming into its own.
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Just How did Astana come to be?
What to do when you preside over the 9th largest country in the world? You move the capital, of course.
In 1997 Nursultan Nazarbayev moved the capital of Kazakhstan from Almaty to a planned city that grew near a small village located in the figurative middle of nowhere on the vast Kazakh Steppe.
Seeing that Nazarbayev wanted to build an entirely new futuristic and modern capital city, to me, it makes perfect sense that he chose the near arse end of nowhere for it.
With glittering high-rise skyscrapers, modernistic monuments, wide streets, and sprawling parks, building the capital alongside the blip on the map known as Akmol was the perfect location (dare I say?- Great success).
And that guys, is how Astana was born.
Astana, the 2nd Coldest Capital City in the World
Having had just left the sweltering early August temps of Almaty a mere few weeks before I arrived in Astana as an invitation from the Embassy of Kazakhstan to the 5th World Nomad Games, even I was surprised by the biting cold mid-September winds of the Kazakh Steppe city of Astana. Only after having been boots on the ground for a few hours did I learn that Astana is effectively the second coldest capital city in the world behind Ulaanbaatar.
Astana is a city of extremes- with temps reaching as high as 40°C in the summer, and plummeting to -30°C and colder in the winter, the city’s weather matches its funky architecture.
The Capital Known as Astana, Formerly known as Nursultan, Now Known as Astana Once Again
In 2019 it was announced in the grand display of typical Central Asia weird, that Astana was renamed to Nursultan, after none other than Kazakhstan’s first president Nursultan Nazarbayev.
In 2022, the name was changed yet again back to its original namesake Astana under the order of the current president Kassym-Jomart Tokayev.
Where to Stay in Astana
Those of us who came to Astana to cover the 2024 World Nomad Games were put up at the Radisson Hotel Astana, which is located on the right bank of the Yessil River right on the edge of Astana’s Old Town. I found this location quite convenient as I could easily leave to explore the Old Town on foot from here.
Those looking for a budget option should check out Hostel Nomad 4×4. The hostel offers cheap dorm beds and is located close to the city center, making getting around Astana a breeze.
Travelers wanting to splurge a bit can check out the Rixos President Hotel which offers top amenities, is in a great location, and has amazing views of Astana.
Things to do in Astana
Baiterek Tower
Baiterek Tower Is the most iconic building on the Astana skyline, sitting right at the center of Astana, and is a must on your list of things to do in Astana.
Inspired by a Kazakh legend about a mythical bird named Samruk who laid her egg atop the Tree of Life, the futuristic monument is steeped in Kazakh cultural meaning.
You can opt to purchase an entry ticket for 2000 KZT to ride up to the lower viewing deck by elevator into the inside of the golden egg.
The second floor of the viewing deck features a book that Nur Sultan Nazarbayev himself placed his hand inside of, leaving a handprint. Join the queue of locals to place your hand on his handprint for good luck.
Nurzhol Boulevard
It would be impossible to properly visit Astana and not pay a visit to Nurzhol Boulevard.
At two kilometers in length, Nurzhol Boulevard cuts through the middle of Astana, starting from the Ak Orda Presidential Palace, running beyond Baiterek, and finally ending between the archway of the KazMunayGaz & KazTranOil building and the iconic tent of Khan Shatyr.
Khan Shatyr Entertainment Complex
Symbolizing the nomadic culture of the Kazakh Steppe in the form of a yurt, Khan Shatyr is another iconic building in Astana, this time serving as the world’s largest tent structure.
Khan Shatyr is a large shopping complex boasting many brands, local and international alike. Uniquely, it also features an indoor beach with sand imported from the Maldives and a monorail.
An interesting feature of Khan Shatyr is that it is made out of ethylene-tetrafluoroethylene, a material designed to absorb heat helping keep the temperature inside at an even comfortable temp, even when it’s -30°C outside.
Jastar Park (Lover’s Park)
35 acre Jastar Park is located just outside Khan Shatyr on Dongelek Square, which you will surely pass through if you’re strolling Nurzhol Boulevard.
Jastar Park features many trees, one of which was planted by Nursultan Nazarbayev himself.
Ak Orda Presidential Palace & Presidential Park
Topped by a blue and gold dome, symbolic of the Kazakh flag, and located at the far end of Nurzhol Boulevard, Ak Orda Presidential Palace serves as the president’s place of work and as the residence of his administration (he lives elsewhere).
On the backside of Ak Orda Presidental Palace, you will find Presidental Park.
The Ak Orda Presidential Palace is not open to the public.
Central Park
Central Park, another sprawling green area of Astana, is a popular place for youth to hang out and have picnics. Central Park is also home to a giant Ferris wheel and an oceanarium.
Nur Astana Mosque
Nur Astana Mosque’s gleaming golden dome is impossible to miss as your eyes scan Astana’s skyline. The mosque is relatively new, having been completed in only 2008.
Nur Astana Mosque is Central Asia’s 3rd largest mosque with the capacity to hold up to 5000 worshippers inside and an additional 2000 outside.
Kazakhstan National Museum
The National Museum of Kazakhstan is an impressive and massive museum showcasing the nation’s history from the ancient to the modern era.
Not to miss is the Hall of Ethnography, giving great insight into Kazakh nomadic culture.
Another interesting feature of the Kazakhstan National Museum is the Hall of Gold. You’ll walk through the inside of a disco-themed donut-shaped room to enter. Beyond you will find replica displays of the country’s gold artifacts, the most important being the Golden Man, an 18 year old Scythian warrior buried in an armor of gold near Almaty.
Entry to the Kazakh National Museum is 700 KZT, including the permanent exhibits. Entry to the Hall of Gold costs an additional 1000 KZT. Special permission is needed for the use of DSLR cameras, however, photos taken with a smartphone are fine.
Palace of Peace & Reconciliation
The Palace of Peace & Reconciliation is a giant 60 meter tall glass pyramid honoring Kazakhstan’s longstanding history of religious and cultural tolerance and was built to host the Leaders of World & Traditional Religion yearly meeting.
Aside from hosting the religious meet-up each year on its uppermost floor, the Palace of Peace & Reconciliation features a museum, a music hall, and the University of Civilization.
Kazakhstan Eli Monument
The Kazakh Eli Monument stands 91 meters high (another significant number seeing Kazakhstan gained its independence from the Soviet Union in 1991).
The Kazakh Eli commemorates Kazakh culture, history, and its people. Atop the monument is a statue of the Golden Man.
Independence Park
Independence Park is centered around the Kazakh Eli Monument but several other important buildings and monuments are scattered about the square.
Here in Independence Park, you will also find the Palace of Independence, the Astana Museum of City History, the Kazakh National University of Arts, the Modern Art Gallery, and the Gallery of Applied History.
Hazrat Sultan Mosque
Located on the south side of Astana, Hazrat Sultan Mosque is the second largest mosque in all of Central Asia with the ability to house up to 10,000 worshippers at a time. The mosque first opened its doors in 2012.
Hazrat Sultan Mosque features shops, a restaurant, and even a beauty salon and barber.
Entry to Hazrat Sultan Mosque is free.
Grand Mosque of Astana
The Grand Mosque of Astana is the largest mosque in Central Asia and among the largest mosques in the world.
Construction of the Gran Mosque of Astana began in 2019 and opened its doors in 2022. That said the Astana Grand Mosque is still under construction.
The mosque features a restaurant, wedding hall, and shops.
Entry to the Grand Mosque of Astana is free but those who would like to ride the elevator up to the observation deck built on one of the mosque’s minarets will need to pay 2000 KZT to do so.
Nur Alem Future Energy Museum (Formerly Expo 2017)
The giant glass ball on the horizon in the Kazakh capital is a remnant of Astana hosting Expo 2017.
The glass sphere at present, features an eight-floor museum dedicated to energy and power sources.
Entry to Nur Alem Future Energy Museum is 1500 KZT.
Astana’s Old Town
Despite Astana being a futuristic and planned city, roughly 275,000 people were living in Astana before the capital being moved here from Almaty in 1997.
Here in Astana’s Old Town, located on the right bank of the Yesil River, you will find older low-slung homes mixed among old Soviet apartment blocks, and USSR-era murals, interrupted by new high-rise buildings.
Personally, the Old Town was my favorite part of Astana because of my obsession with Soviet-era and brutalist architecture. While the center of Astana is glitzy and glimmering, the Old Town feels a bit more worn in.
Astanaluk Bazaar
The six-story Astanaluk Bazaar sells just about anything you could ever need from produce, meat, and dairy products, to clothing, shoes, and even furniture. On the sixth floor among the furniture shops, you will also find an open-air nail salon, beauty salons, and barber shops.
Yesil River Walk
For another perspective on the Astana Skyline, take a stroll along the Yesil River Bank’s Waterfront. It’s also a great place to go for a morning jog or an evening walk.
Military Historical Museum of the Armed Forces
Once the Kazakh Cultural Center, the yurt-shaped building now houses the Military Historical Museum of the Armed Forces.
The museum explores the historical stories of Kazakh nomadic warriors all the way up to Kazakhstan’s role within the Soviet Army and the Great Patriotic War (WWII).
Entry to the Military Historical Museum of the Armed Forces is free.
Museum of the First President
Dedicated to Nazarbayev and his contributions to Kazakh society, the Museum of the First President features not only an exhibition of Nazarbayev’s childhood as well as a hall featuring his extensive gift collection of items bestowed to him by other world leaders.
Entry to the Museum of the First President is free.
Astana Circus
Resembling a giant spaceship, the Astana Circus (or Fountain Circus is worth a gander if you will be passing by.
Atameken Ethno-Memorial Complex
Want to see all of Kazakhstan but don’t have time to leave Astana? The Atameken is the perfect place to go featuring a giant map of the country with miniatures of the nation’s most famous symbols and sites.
Entry to the Atameken is 1200 KZT.
Day Trips from Astana (& Longer!)
Alzhir Malinovka Gulag/Memorial in Akmol
Kazakhstan was seen as somewhat of a vast wasteland to the Soviets, where several gulags were established leading to the deaths and imprisonments of many who were viewed as enemies of the state, along with their relatives.
Akmol housed a gulag during the Soviet era known as Alzhir Malinovka, a labor camp for the wives of men jailed as traitors to the motherland. About 8000 women were sent to the Alzhir Gulag over the years, living out harsh days at the camp.
These days, a memorial to the women sent to this gulag is at the site, alongside the Museum of Victims of Repression.
To get to Alzhir Malinovka head to the Astana Bus Station by the Old Train Station to hop on one of the frequent buses to the village of Akmol.
Korghalzyn National Park
The wetlands of Korghalzyn lure in an array of avian life including pink flamingos and pelicans. Located 100 kilometers south of Astana, a visit to Korghalzyn National Park makes for a great day trip.
You can find buses departing for the village of Korghalzyn at the Astana Bus Station, however you may opt to just take a guided group trip from the capital.
Burabay National Park & Lake Borovoe
A popular weekend getaway for Astana residents, there is plenty to do and see in and around Burabay National Park, and amenities to fit just about any budget.
Best Restaurants in Astana
Saksul
Saksul is a popular restaurant among locals and visitors serving up contemporary takes on traditional Kazakh and Central Asian cuisine.
Navat
Navat is a chain found in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan with a fun interior offering great Kazakh, pan-Central Asia, and Russian dishes.
Coffee Boom
Coffee Boon is a Kazakh chain found all over Astana and the country. With an array of salads, burgers, pizza, Central Asian, and desserts you can likely find something no matter what you’re hungry for.
Getting Around in Astana
Astana boasts a good public transportation network served by buses. I would advise downloading and using 2GIS as it is what the locals use and is heaps more useful than Google Maps (this holds true for other parts of Kazakhstan and the greater Central Asia region).
If needing to get around a bit quicker than what the public buses can provide, the Yandex Taxi App works well in Astana. Prices can fluctuate depending on traffic and demand but most rides seemed to range from 700-2000 KZT.
Getting to Astana
If you are beginning your trip to Kazakhstan from Astana you will likely fly in. Astana’s Nazarbayev International Airport is served by many carriers, including Air Astana but other well-known full-service and budget airlines from numerous cities in Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.
If coming from elsewhere in Kazakhstan such as Almaty, Turkestan, Aktobe, Atyrau, Aktau, Kyzylorda, or other destinations, traveling by train is recommended to cover the vast distances or grabbing a domestic flight with Air Astana.
Best Time to Visit Astana
Astana is a city of extremes on the wild Kazakh Steppe, so plan (or pack) accordingly.
The best time to visit Astana is between May and September with the most pleasant temperatures found in May, June, August, and early September. June and July are great for exploring, however, you can have some hot days in the high 30°Cs and even as high as the low 40°Cs.
Winter in Astana is best avoided for most sane people (a demographic of which I am not a part). With temps hovering somewhere between -30°C and -40°C between December and March, pack extra warm gear if you decide to brave steppe winter (something I very much plan to do one of these coming winters).
Astana’s weather can always be a bit erratic given its location in the wild north on the fringes of Siberia. That said, fall, and particularly spring, can be quite so with snow melt and unpredictable rain showers.
Have Any Questions About Visiting Astana or the Best Things to Do in Astana?
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