Vegetarian in Central Asia

Vegetarian in Central Asia was written by the creator of TDTM and was published in 2025

Tired of hearing that being vegetarian in Central Asia is like finding a needle in a meat-filled haystack?

So was I.

With little more than crumbs of information online, I’ve taken matters into my own hands and compiled some firsthand veggie survival tips for the region.

Spoiler alert: it’s not that hard, so you can wipe those tears away.

Uzbekistan

Tashkent

Afsona

Afsona restaurant in Tashkent has a variety of high-quality options for Uzbek food and Central Asian dishes for Vegetarians.

The modern interior adds to the experience and the staff is welcoming.

Menus are available in English. 

Starters include:

• Eastern pickles 69,000 UZS / £4.14 / $5.45

Marinated assorted specialty salted with oriental fragrant spices.

• Assorted vegetables 77,000 UZS / £4.62 / $6.08

Assorted fresh vegetables grown in mountain ranges of Uzbekistan.

• Stuffed eggplant aubergine rolls with feta cheese 48,000 UZS / £2.88 / $3.79

Stuffed eggplant aubergine rolls with feta cheese, garlic, herbs and walnuts.

• Samsa with spinach and feta cheese 23,000 UZS / £1.38 / $1.82

Made from fresh allspice spinach and white cheese, produced according to a special recipe.

• Katlama with cheese 43,000 UZS / £2.58 / $3.40

Puff pastry with tender cheese baked in the oven.

Salads include:

• Achichuk 39,000 UZS / £2.34 / $3.08

Traditional salad of sweet tomatoes grown in the ranges of Uzbekistan in combination with spicy onions and fragrant basil.

• Marvarid salad 41,000 UZS / £2.46 / $3.24

A refreshing vegetable salad with cool yogurt dressing, combined with crisp juicy radishes, eggs, and fragrant dill.

• Warm vegetable salad 42,000 UZS / £2.52 / $3.32

Fried vegetables, mixed lettuce, dressed with Chef’s sauce.

• Shakarob 42,000 UZS/ £2.52 / $3.32

A traditional salad of thinly sliced sweet fleshy tomatoes, combined with cucumbers and Bell pepper, goes well with main dishes of national cuisine.

• Green salad 43,000 UZS / £2.58 / $3.40

A great light salad made from crispy cucumbers, finely chopped tomatoes, fresh lettuce, bell pepper, and dill, dressed with oil and lemon juice.

• Bahor salad 42,000 UZS / £2.52 / $3.32

Salad from the chef, prepared from fresh selected vegetables and greens.

• Crispy Eggplant Aubergine salad 59,000 UZS / £3.54 / $4.25

Fried eggplants, cherry tomatoes, and walnuts, seasoned with signature sauce.

• Bactria salad 62,000 UZS / £3.72 / $4.90

Salad made of iceberg lettuce, bell pepper, tomatoes, feta, and olives, dressed with a special sauce.

Mains include:

• Vegetable shashlik 36,000 UZS / £2.16 / $2.84

I didn’t take a photo of this part of the menu but it’s vegetable shashlik. Vegetables cooked in a well-fit fashion.

I struggle with commitment and enjoy trying a variety of food, so I ordered Uzbek tapas:

• Achichuk 39,000 UZS / £2.34 / $3.08
• Samsa with spinach and feta cheese 23,000 UZS / £1.38 / $1.82
• Vegetable shashlik 36,000 UZS / £2.16 / $2.84
• Water 13,000 UZS / 78p / $1.03

Meal came in at 127,650 UZS / £7.66 / $10.08

Caravan

Caravan is my favorite restaurant in Tashkent.

The restaurant is gorgeous, with inside and outside seating areas. I chose to sit inside so I could enjoy the live band who played numerous classics from Michael Jackson to Gloria Estefan in an inimitable Uzbek style.

Also, the staff are the nicest. They were very patient with me and even gave me a complimentary plate of pickles. Best restaurant ever? Quite possibly. 

I ordered in Russian but they also have an English menu. I’ve included menu items in both languages.

Eastern baked goods / Восточная выпечка:

• Flatbread / Лепёшка 8,000 UZS / 48p / 63¢
• Uzbek non / Патырчик 8,000 UZS / 48p / 63¢ 
• Assorted bread / Хлебное ассорты 29,000 UZS / £1.74 / $2.29
• Samsa with greens / Самса с зеленью 26,000 UZS / £1.56 / $2.05
• Samsa with pumpkin / Самса с тыквой 24,000 UZS / £1.44 / $1.90
• Samsa with potato / Cамса с картофелем 23,000 UZS / £1.38 / $1.82

Salads / Салаты:

• Rokhat / Рохат 32,000 UZS / £1.92 / $2.53

Summer salad with tomatoes, boiled egg, fresh dill, coriander, garlic, dressed with katyk (Asian yogurt).

• Cacik / Джа-джик 31,000 UZS / £1.86 / $2.45

• Greek / Греческий 125,000 UZS / £7.50 / $9.88

• Spring / Весенний 31,000 UZS / £1.86 / $2.45

Radishes and cucumbers with herbs in katyk (Asian yogurt).

• Achichuk / Aччик чучук pink paradise 32,000 UZS / £1.92 / $2.53

Thinly sliced large ripe pink tomatoes, white onion and hot pepper.

• Shakarob / Шакаров 36,000 UZS / £2.16 / $2.84

Pink tomatoes, onions with aromatic basil leaves.

• Kharavats / Харавац 39,000 UZS / £2.34 / $3.08

Charcoal-baked eggplants aubergines, bell peppers, and tomatoes, seasoned with vegetable oil, garlic, and herbs.

• Georgian salad / Салат Грузинский 69,000 UZS / £4.14 / $5.45

Fresh vegetables with herbs and hot pepper, seasoned with wine vinegar.

Soups / Супы:

• Cream of lentil soup / Чечевичный крем-суп по-ливански 38,000 UZS / £2.28 / $3

Cold starters / Холодные закуски:

• Cheeseboard / Сырная доска 179,000 UZS / £10.74 / $14.14
• Cucumbers / Огурцы 38,000 UZS / £2.28 / $3
• Tomatoes / Помидоры 38,000 UZS / £2.28 / $3
• Barrel tomatoes / Помидоры бочковые 27,000 UZS / £1.62 / $2.13 
• Vegetable bouquet / Овощной букет 74,000 UZS / £4.44 / $5.85

Assorted tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, bell peppers, green onions, herbs, suzma, and feta cheese.

Main courses / Основные блюда:

• Manti with pumpkin / Манты с тыквой 8,400 UZS / 50p / 66¢

Caucasian / Шашлыки кавказские:

• Potato kebab / Картофельный кебаб 24,000 UZS / £1.44 / $1.90
• Mushroom kebab / Шашлык грибной 42,000 UZS / £2.52 / $3.32
• Vegetable kebab / Шашлык овощной 49,000 UZS / £2.94 / $3.87

I ordered:

2x компот 0.3л 24,000 UZS / £1.44 / $1.90

Uzbek non / Патырчик <<караван>> 8,000 UZS / 48p / 63¢

3x Manti with pumpkin / Манты с тыквой 25,200 UZS / £1.51 / $1.99

Vegetable kebab / Шашлык овощной 49,000 UZS / £2.94 / $3.87

Plate of assorted pickles free

Meal came in at 127,400 UZS / £7.64 / $10.06

VIP class on the train from Tashkent to Samarkand

I ended up in the VIP carriage of the 08:23 to Samarkand (it was the only ticket left) and as luck would have it breakfast was included.

There was no choice over what we received, the food was simply plopped down in front of you – everyone received the same.

Fortunately, it all seemed to be vegetarian – and pretty tasty:

• Porridge / Каша
• Mini pancakes with cream cheese / Блинчики 
• Mini nan / Нон или хлеб
• Nuts and dried fruit / Орехи и сухофрукты

Samarkand

Old City

This place was incredible – they offer a vegetarian version of pretty much every Uzbek classic. Plus I’m convinced it cured me of a particularly shitty cold.

Starters:

• Borsch 33,000 UZS / £1.98 / $2.61

Beetroot and cabbage soup – veggie version available.

• Lagman 44,000 UZS / £2.64 / $3.48

Uzbek noodle and vegetable soup – veggie version available.

• Mashkhurda 35,000 UZS / £2.10 / $2.76

Mungbean, rice, beans, vegetables.

• Cream soup 32,000 UZS / £1.92 / $2.53

• Cream soup with mushrooms 40,000 UZS / £2.40 / $3.16

Cold snacks:

• Cheese 30,000 UZS / £1.80 / $2.37
• Pita bread with cheese 45,000 UZS / £2.70 / $3.55
• Pickled vegetables 65,000UZS / £3.90 / $5.14
• Black olives 23,000 UZS / £1.38 / $1.82
• Green olives 23,000 UZS / £1.38 / $1.82
• Lemon 18,000 UZS / £1.08 / $1.42
• Local yogurt 24,000 UZS / £1.44 / $1.90

Salads:

• Весенняя свежость – Spring freshness 35,000 UZS / £2.10 / $2.76

Tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, greenery.

• Пикантный – Piquantny 37,000 UZS / £2.22 / $2.92

Tomatoes, cucumbers, sweetcorn, greenery.

• Эликсир – Elixir 30,000 UZS / £1.80 / $2.37

Beetroot, carrots, cabbage, greenery, garlic.

• Лесная сказка – forest fairytale 32,000 / £1.92 / $2.53

Mushrooms, green onions.

• Вегетарианец – Vegetarian 30,000 UZS / £1.80 / $2.37

Beetroot, walnuts, garlic, mayonnaise.

• Веселая карусель – Merry-go-round 37,000 UZS / £2.22 / $2.92

Cabbage, tomatoes, bell pepper, carrots, garlic, greenery.

• Крестьянский – Peasants 35,000 UZS / £2.10 / $2.76

French beans, garlic, mayonnaise.

• Вечер в греции – Evening in Greece 49,000 UZS / £2.94 / $3.87

Tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, olives, lettuce, bell pepper.

• Монте карло – Monte Carlo 49,000 UZS / £2.94 / $3.87

Mushrooms, cheese, tomatoes, radishes, lettuce, basil.

• Роман – Roman 45,000 UZS / £2.70 / $3.55 

Lettuce, cheese, tomatoes, garlic, green peas, mustard, white wine, mayonnaise.

• Изюминка – Zest 32,000 UZS / £1.92 / $2.53

Carrots, apples, raisins, mayonnaise.

Mains:

• Samarkand plov 55,000 UZS / £3.30 / $4.35

Rice, carrots, raisins, peas, apples – veggie version available.

• Dimlama 52,000 UZS / £3.12 / $4.35

Stewed vegetables with meat but veggie version available.

• Vegetable manti 50,000 UZS / £3.00 / $3.95

• Shilpildok 55,000 UZS / £3.30 / $4.35

Dough and veggies with meat but veggie version available.

• Samsa with vegetables 20,000 UZS / £1.20 / $1.58

• Khanum with vegetables 50,000 UZS / £3.00 / $3.95

I ordered:

2x Kompot 25,000 UZS / £1.50 / $1.97

Lagman 44,000 UZS / £2.64 / $3.48

This was the best lagman I’ve ever had – and I’m convinced has healing properties

Piquant salad 37,000 UZS / £2.22 / $2.92

Manti 50,000 UZS / £3.00 / $3.95

Meal came in at 180,000 UZS / £10.80 / $14.22

Bibikhanum Teahouse/Чайхана 

Bibikhanum Teahouse in Samarkand, while a bit touristy, is a pretty spot to enjoy a meal amidst its beautiful surroundings, in a convenient location. I only had a snack here, but noticed the dedicated vegetarian section on the menu. 

I ordered:

• Морковка (best salad ever)
• Coca-cola

Normal class on the train back to Tashkent

I slummed it on the way back to Tashkent. I took the late evening train back and there was no complimentary meal this time.

Before boarding, I bought a kартошка пирожки/potato pie from a lady at the station to keep me going for the journey.

I thought a pastry filled with potato would be super bland but the potato was seasoned really well and I ended up wishing I’d bought two.

Tajikistan

Khujand

Golden Fish Restaurant 

Honestly, I ate here out of laziness. The vegan restaurant in Khujand I thought I’d found had been turned into a yoga studio and I couldn’t be bothered to walk back to the other side of town.

When I spotted Georgian food on the menu of this place, which happened to be pretty near my hostel, I called it a day.

It’s a random menu, with a little bit of everything, including:

Pasta:

• Fettuccine with courgette and mint 43 TJS / £3.07 / $4.03
• Four cheese spaghetti 35 TJS / £2.50 / $3.28
• Mushroom risotto 40 TJS / £2.86 / $3.75 

Khinkali:

• Khinkali with cheese 9 TJS / 64p / 84¢
• Khinkali with mushrooms 9 TJS / 64p / 84¢
• Khinkali with vegetables 9 TJS / 64p / 84¢

They also offered khachapuri but I didn’t document the price. Just smashed it in my face instead.

Dushanbe

Shvili

Do I make the most of the A+ Georgian food in the capital and eat it almost exclusively when I’m in this city?

Yes. Yes, I do.

There is so much choice for veggies on this menu and is somewhere I go back to time and time again. Probably the best Georgian restaurant in Dushanbe.

Starters: 

• Assorted pkhali 59 TJS / £4.21 / $5.53

Spinach, green beans, beetroot and cabbage.

• Jonjoli 39 TJS / £2.78 / $3.66

Georgian pickle seasoned with vegetable oil, red onion and coriander.

• Eggplant aubergine rolls with walnut filling 65 TJS / £4.64 / $6.09 

Essentially the famous Georgian appetizer of badrijani nigvizit.

• Assorted Georgian cheeses 89 TJS / £6.35 / $8.34 

• Assorted pickles 55 TJS / £3.92 / $5.16

Cucumbers, green tomatoes, garlic, wild garlic, bell peppers, jonjoli.

• Eggplant aubergine rolls with cottage cheese in tomato sauce 55 TJS / £3.92 / $5.16

• Lobio 59 TJS / £4.21 / $5.53 

Georgian red bean dish with traditional spices.

• Fried mushrooms stuffed with cheese 74 TJS / £5.28 / $6.94

• Cheese balls with jam 67 TJS / £4.78 / $6.28

Khinkali: 

• Cheese 12 TJS / 86p / $1.12

• Cherry with sour cream 49 TJS / £3.50 / $4.59

Khachapuri:

• Adjarian 75 TJS / £5.35 / $7.03
• Blue cheese and pear 79 TJS / £5.64 / $7.40
• Spinach and herbs 65 TJS / £4.64 / $6.09 
• Tomatoes and cheese 69 TJS / £4.92 / $6.47
• Megrelian 85 TJS / £6.07 / $7.97
• Imeretinsky 75 TJS / £5.35 / $7.03
• Gurian 79 TJS / £5.64 / $7.40
• Lavash 14 TJS / £1.00 / $1.31

Salads:

• Vegetable salad with/without nuts 69 TJS / £4.92 / $6.47
• Ripe tomato with tarragon, sorrel and red onion 69 TJS / £4.92 / $6.47
• Crispy eggplant aubergine with tomatoes, herbs and cheese 89 TJS / £6.35 / $8.34 
• Oyster mushrooms, white beans, and mixed greens 65 TJS / £4.64 / $6.09 

A typical order for us:

Aubergine rolls with walnut filling

Cheese khinkali 

Adjarian Khachapuri 

Plus a gallon of Georgian wine please and thank you

Tartin

Tartin is a cute little bakery just off Rudaki. It has a nice chilled vibe and an extensive menu – with loads of options for veggies. They are amazing for sweet treats, rafs, or even a light lunch.

Breakfast:

• Blini and jam 40 TJS / £2.85 / $3.75 
• Granola 45 TJS / £3.21 / $4.22 
• Oatmeal 40 TJS / £2.85 / $3.75 
• Shakshuka 55 TJS / £3.93 / $5.16
• Frittata with cheese and tomatoes 45 TJS / £3.21 / $4.22

Salads:

• Greek salad 55 TJS / £3.93 / $5.16
• Rocket salad with eggplant aubergine 60,000 UZS / £4.28 / $5.62

Burgers:

• Veggie-burger 55 TJS / £3.93 / $5.16

Soups:

• Cream of broccoli soup 42 TJS / £3.00 / $3.94
• Cream of pumpkin soup 45 TJS / £3.21 / $4.22
• Cream of mushroom soup 45 TJS / £3.21 / $4.22

Recommendations:

Any of the puddings

Honey raf

Pumpkin soup

Al Sham

An amazing Lebanese restaurant in Dushanbe with a great selection of vegetarian options, including:

Soup:

• Shorbat adas 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Cream of mushroom 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81 
• Pumpkin soup 25 TJS / £1.78 / $2.34 

Starters:

• Hummus 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Mutabbal 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Baba Ghanoush 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Muhammara 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Labne 28 TJS / £2.00 / $2.62 
• Feta cheese 28 TJS / £2.00 / $2.62
• Warak enab 28 TJS / £2.00 / $2.62
• Green/black olives 25 TJS / £ / $ 
• Cucumber yogurt 20 TJS / £ / $ 
• Shanglish 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Pickles 40 TJS / £2.85 / $3.75 
• Barak 25 TJS / £1.78 / $2.34
• Falafel 25 TJS / £1.78 / $2.34
• Vegetarian platter 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Spicy potato 25 TJS / £1.78 / $2.34

Salads:

• Fattoush 35 TJS / £2.50 / $3.28 
• Tabouleh 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Khadra salad 35 TJS / £2.50 / $3.28 
• Jar-jeer 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Nejnost salad 35 TJS / £2.50 / $3.28 

Mains:

• Vegetable tajin 50 TJS / £3.57 / $4.69 
• Falafel sandwich 35 TJS / £2.50 / $3.28 
• Zaatar manakeesh 25 TJS / £1.78 / $2.34
• Cheese manakeesh 25 TJS / £1.78 / $2.34
• Zaatar and cheese manakeesh 30 TJS / £2.14 / $2.81
• Khubz 12 TJS / 86p / $1.12 

Pamirs

Strap in for tomatoes and cucumbers galore. 

Kalaikhum

Oshkhonai Milli Restaurant 

The legendary Night of Two Dinners! After taking a stroll around Kalaikhum on arriving in the town, we went out to dinner at Oshkhonai Milli for Tajik food.

Honestly, it is slim pickings for veggies. We may have just had bad luck on this occasion but they didn’t have much left on the menu besides hot dogs.

We ordered rice and a side salad and ended up with a pasta-rice combo.

And you know this was the one time I left the sriracha back at the guesthouse.

You might be inclined to think that the sauce on the pasta had flavor.

It didn’t.

Funny story: unfortunately due to a miscommunication, after eating out we returned to our guesthouse to find they had also prepared a dinner for us.

Pro veggie tip: do yourself a favor and eat at the Roma Guesthouse instead.

Jizeu

Zahro Homestay

Our homestay in Jizeu was located in one of the most beautiful places in the world. The family we stayed with were kind enough to prepare vegetarian versions of traditional meals.

A typical snack tray laid out for you at any homestay in the mountains of Tajikistan: bread, fresh fruit, kefir, nuts, tea, biscuits (печенье), and sweets (конфеты). All of this is to be consumed before you’re given at least two courses of a home-cooked meal for dinner. 

Khorog

Delhi Darbar

An Indian restaurant in the Pamirs? Nope. They tried though – and that’s what counts. It’s not bad food per se, so long as you can forget it’s trying to be Indian food. We shared a mushroom masala and it was fine, but spice levels are nil – I think they’re allergic in Taj.

Welcome Inn

Our friend Zhandiya’s sister, Parvina came over while we were in Khorog and she taught us how to make shakarob which is a variant of qurutob (shakarob is tomato-based rather than cream). It was insane – by far the best Tajik food I’ve ever had, so fresh and delicious.

Ishkoshim

Eatery at 36.724688, 71.61598

Along the Pamir Highway, you’ll frequently come across roadside stops serving fake lagman. A simple, hearty dish that’s not as flavourful as the real thing but still comforting and filling.

Be prepared for a heavy hand with the dill – it’s a staple out here. And remember your new favorite phrase to survive as a vegetarian out here, <<без мясом>> (pronounced “bez myahsam” – without meat).

Yamchun

Charshanbe Homestay

At this gorgeous homestay in the Yamchun area, the family was kind enough to make traditional meals vegetarian.

The meals were simple but made with fresh, local ingredients, offering a genuine taste of Tajik home cooking.

Zong

Sash Guesthouse (Big Shop)

We stayed at Sash Guesthouse which sits upstairs from the ‘Big Shop’ in Zong and by all accounts I was having too much fun (definitely not starting a cult) to document any of the food we had.

There aren’t any restaurants as such in town, but the family at Sash Guesthouse makes amazing food.

Expect the usual soups and plovs and be sure to let the family know that you would like your food <<без мясом>>. 

Kyrgyzstan

Tulparkul

Munar Yurtstay

We really lucked out at our yurt stay in Tulparkul. Not only was the yurt owner a teacher, mother, and all-around legend, but she was also the most incredible chef.

We had one of my favorite salads, markovka, potato manti, and the staple of Central Asia, soup. 

Osh

Monaco

We wanted something easy coming into Osh after a couple of weeks in the Pamirs, so pizza and cocktails it was.

There are plenty of veggie pizzas on the menu and the cocktails are very generous – mine was all Aperol and no spritz. The perfect ratio.

Ojak Kebap / Ожак кебап

Stumbling upon Ojak Kebap was a happy accident. This Turkish restaurant serves an array of veggie-friendly dishes.

The air-conditioned interior was cool both literally and metaphorically, which was a welcome escape from the July heat in Osh.

40.521492, 72.799848 (Ashlan-Fu)

The numbers above are the coordinates for the greatest hole-in-the-wall food joint in the world.

Pop them into your maps app of choice and you will end up in the hottest spot for Ashlan-Fu in Osh (possibly the only place in Osh serving ashlan-fu).

Fratelli

This Italian restaurant in Osh has a reasonable amount of vegetarian options. The food was decent, though the service was a bit slow, so it’s best to go when you’re not in a rush.

Have any questions about surviving as a vegetarian in Central Asia or have any info to add?

Ask or chime in on the comments section below.

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