Shor Bulog Observatory, Tajikistan, Adventures of Nicole

Shor Bulog Observatory: Chasing Forgotten Stars in Tajikistan

Shor Bulog Observatory: Chasing Forgotten Stars in Tajikistan was originally published in 2026

There’s something undeniably haunting about standing at the edge of the forgotten Shor Bulog Observatory, high in the Pamir, where the stars once guided Soviet science.

Hidden in the rugged peaks of Tajikistan’s Pamir Mountains, the abandoned Shor Bulog Observatory feels like you’ve stumbled into a Cold War time capsule, where the Soviets once peered into deep space while marmots now scamper through the remains.

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Practical Tips for Visiting Shor Bulog

Location: South of Murghab and the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan’s GBAO.
How to Get There: Best reached by 4×4 from Khorog or Murghab. There is no public transport to Shor Bulog, so if attempting it, take a shared taxi between Khorog and Murghab (Alichur and Murghab); you’ll need to hire a local driver or hike the final section.
When to Visit: Late spring to early autumn for clear skies; jeep tracks may be difficult in winter.

If you’re looking to uncover the lesser-seen face of Tajikistan, Shor Bulog will give you a travel story you won’t forget.

A Brief History of Shor Bulog

Officially, the name of Shor Buloq Observatory was the Central Astronomical Observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences at Pulkovo, located in an area known as Shor Bulog. The observatory was run by Russian astrophysicist Kirill Maslennikov.

Shor Bulog (sometimes written as Shor buloq) sits high above the Murghab Plateau in Gorno-Badakhshan, Tajikistan, a region often called the “Roof of the World” for good reason. Built during the Soviet era in the 1970s, Shor Bulog Observatory was part of a network of high-altitude astronomical observatories across Central Asia, leveraging the clear Pamiri skies for space observation, satellite tracking, and astrophysics research.

Its specific function was to study submillimeter-wavelength astronomy. The area here was chosen because observing these extremely short wavelengths is challenging in places where there is water in the atmosphere. They needed a location that was extremely arid, with cool temperatures, and generally stable weather.

At its peak, Shor Bulog hosted astronomers and technicians who monitored celestial events and contributed data to Soviet space science programs. The observatory’s strategic altitude above 3,000 meters offered a crisp, unpolluted window to the stars, making it one of the prime Soviet observatories in the region alongside those in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan.

Abandonment and Current State

The collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 led to funding drying up, and Shor Bulog Observatory has been abandoned for over three decades. Nature began reclaiming the site almost immediately. Windows shattered, rust crept over the steel domes, and the telescope, once aimed precisely at the constellations, now points aimlessly into the empty blue sky, locked behind an iron door.

Inside, Soviet-era instruments gather dust, notebooks and wiring remain scattered, and a surreal hush hangs over the dome. Occasionally, shepherds pass by, and local children wander up to explore, but otherwise, Shor Bulog has become a forgotten watchtower over the Pamirs, quietly observing the world as it changes below.

Visiting Shor Bulog: The Journey

Reaching Shor Bulog Observatory is half the adventure. You’ll wind up rocky switchbacks just south of the Pamir Highway along a jeep track headed toward Jarty Gumbez and Zorkul. The views are unfiltered: now arid and once glacier-carved valleys, jagged summits, and the occasional eagle circling high above.

Standing beneath the rusted domes of Shor Bulog, you can almost hear the whispers of engineers tracking satellites and charting star movements, their voices carried off by the wind down the valleys.

Why Shor Bulog Matters

Shor Bulog isn’t just an abandoned Soviet observatory; it’s a monument to human curiosity, built in a place most would consider impossible. It’s also a stark reminder of Tajikistan’s overlooked scientific history and the region’s potential for dark-sky stargazing even today.

If you’re exploring the Pamirs and find yourself near Jarty Gumbez or on your way to Zorkul, consider making the trip to Shor Bulog. It’s perfect for Urbexers, history lovers, photographers, and anyone who enjoys discovering places where the world has moved on but the mountains still stand watch.

Final Thoughts on Shor Bulog

Visiting Shor Bulog Observatory is a journey back in time, a glimpse into the ambitions of the Soviet space age tucked high in the Pamirs. It’s eerie and beautiful, reminding us of the region’s scientific legacy and the relentless power of nature to reclaim what humans abandon.

If you’re traveling through Tajikistan’s Pamir, don’t skip Shor Bulog.