Afghan Bazaar, Tem, Pamir, Tajikistan, Adventures of Nicole

Visiting the Afghan Bazaar in Tem: A Saturday Cross-Border Adventure from Khorog

Visiting the Afghan Bazaar in Tem: A Saturday Cross-Border Adventure from Khorog was originally published in 2026

Note: As of January 2026, the Afghan Bazaar at Tem is still closed to foreigners. IDs are checked at the entrance.

On the banks of the Panj River in Tajikistan’s Pamirs, a different kind of adventure wakes up every Saturday morning. The Afghan Bazaar at Tem, just outside of Khorog, isn’t just a market; it’s a living snapshot of how Tajik and Afghan cultures have traded, laughed, and shared news across this rugged border, since the time that, well, a border here separated them.

If you’re looking to experience the Khorog Cross-Border Market that feels raw, authentic, and human, the Tem Bazaar is where your Saturday morning should take you.

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Importance of the Afghan Bazaar

The Tem Bazaar is a unique cross-border market between Tajikistan and Afghanistan, operating under a special agreement allowing Afghan traders to bring goods across without a visa for bazaar day. This keeps traditions alive along one of the world’s most stunning and geopolitically charged borders while giving travelers a rare glimpse into the rhythm of life along the Panj River.

The Journey to the Tem Bazaar

The morning kicked off with meeting my good friend Asror for a quick non-glam but practical ride on tengem #4 (tangems are the little white minibuses you’ll see zipping around Khorog).

Tangem #4 runs up and down the main road on Saturdays to the Afghan Cross Border Bazaar. Simply stand on the side of the road with your hand out when you see #4 coming in your direction. A good place to catch the tangem is at Khorog’s Old Bazaar, as many locals will be getting in and out here.

The cost of the #4 tangem is 2.5 TJS per person.

We zipped past Pamiri homes and apricot trees, the river glittering beside us, arriving near the Tem bridge after about 10 minutes.

Entering the Khorog Afghan Border Market feels like entering a neutral-zone festival. You will see members of the Tajik military at the gate leading in and posted up about the bazaar. That said, no special clearance is needed to visit the bazaar, but I would recommend carrying your passport with you just in case you get asked by officials to see it.

What You’ll Find at the Afghan Bazaar

By 10 am, the Afghan Bazaar in Tem is starting to get moving, alive with color: men in shalwar kameez and pakols hawking turmeric and cumin, traders laying out Afghan carpets, and laughter rolling over the hum of negotiations.

We left with spices, kohl eyeliner, handmade jewelry, soap, a secondhand patoo, and plenty a warm conversation about what life is like across the border (I, unfortunately, cannot go back to Afghanistan for the time being).

Useful Info for Visiting the Tem Bazaar

When to Go:

Saturdays, around 10:00 to 13:30 is the peak time. Get there early for the best experience. By noon, it can be quite crowded, and then things start to die off as you inch closer to 13:00.
Typically, hours run 09:00–14:00 on Saturdays, though closures are frequent and can be short-notice.

How to Get There:

Take minibus No. 4 (tengem) from Khorog Bazaar, 2.5 TJS (~10-15 minutes, depending on where you catch it).
Drop off near the Tem bridge and walk to the checkpoint.

Tips:

Bring your GBAO permit and passport.
Bring small bills in Tajik somoni.
Haggling is casual and expected.
Always ask permission before taking photos of people.
Wear sunscreen; it can be especially hot in the peak of summer.

Things to Know Before You go to the Afghan Bazaar

You do not technically enter Afghanistan at the Tem Market, as it takes place on the Tajik side.
The Ishkashim Market, which also takes place on Saturdays, does take place technically in Afghanistan on an island on their side. You do not need a visa to visit the market, but you do need your passport as border guards will hold on to it until you leave the Ishkahsim Cross Border Market.

Why You Shouldn’t Miss the Afghan Bazaar

The Khorog Cross-Border Market at Tem is not just a place to shop but to experience a rare slice of border life, where cultures meet with warmth and resilience. Against the dramatic backdrop of the Pamirs, you get to see that borders can be more than lines on a map; they can be places of connection.

If you’re traveling the Pamir Highway or basing yourself in Khorog, make space in your Saturday to visit the Afghan Bazaar. It’s one of those experiences you’ll talk about long after the saffron has been used up and the dust has been washed out of your scarf.