Ishkashim Border Crossing, Afghanistan-Tajikistan Border, Adventures of Nicole

Ishkashim Border Crossing Between Tajikistan & Afghanistan

Updated July 2025, The Ishkashim Border Crossing Between Tajikistan & Afghanistan was originally written in October 2019

The Tajikistan-Afghanistan border crossing at Ishkashim connects the Tajik and Afghan Wakhan valleys. For visiting the Afghan Wakhan crossing the Ishkashim border crossing is the only feasibly safe way to access the narrow Wakhan Corridor.

The border does close periodically. Usually in times of disease outbreak and when Taliban pushes into the Badakhshan Province to close for comfort.

January 2026 update: The Ishkashim Border Crossing is currently closed. Those wanting to travel between Tajikistan and Afghanistan should plan to cross at Shir Khan Bandar Border Crossing, just south of Dushanbe, for the time being.

Start planning: The Ultimate Afghanistan Travel Guide

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Afghan & Tajik Visas

Afghan Visa

Afghanistan Visa, Afghanistan Registration Card, Adventures of Nicole

Citizens of any country planning to visit Afghanistan will need a visa to enter. With the expense of the visa and the chance that the border crossing could be closed. Please note that as of January 2026, the Khorog consulate is still closed with no signs of reopening.

Read more about how to apply for an Afghan visa here.

For a quick rundown, most nationalities pay $90-200 for an Afghan visa, Americans (US) having to pay $200-220. You’ll need to fill out an application, write a letter stating you understand the risks involved, and pay your visa fee.

I walked out with my visa about 30 minutes later, sometimes it takes a few days. Enquire when you arrive in Khorog.

Tajik Visa

For those with the 30 day visa-free entry to Tajikistan, this is a breeze, the only caveat being that you will need a GBAO permit secured in advance if you plan to use the Ishkashim Border Crossing. For those who will utilize the Tajik e-visa, make sure to opt to purchase the GBAO permit on your application.

You will need to get a GBAO permit in order to enter the GBAO region of Tajikistan (the Tajik Wakhan is in this region). You can apply for one on your e-visa, or grab one from the GBAO

For more on planning your visit in Tajikistan, I recommend picking up a copy of the Bradt Tajikistan guidebook.

Apply for your GBAO permit here

How to Cross the Tajikistan-Afghanistan Border at Ishkashim

Panj River, Ishkashim Border, Afghanistan-Tajikistan Border, Adventures of Nicole

Get To Khorog

First, you’ll need to head for Khorog, the main and largest city in the Pamirs. If coming from Dushanbe, plan for a 12-18 hour journey, and from Murghab, plan for about 8 hours drive. In Khorog, head to the Afghan Consulate and apply for your Afghanistan visa.

Plan your stopover in Khorog: The Khorog Travel Guide

Next Get a Shared Taxi to Ishkashim

In the mornings, you can grab a shared taxi from the Khorog Bazaar bound for Ishkashim for about 50 TJS. Let your driver know you want to be dropped at the border gate and not in the town. The bridge that crosses from Tajikistan to Afghanistan is 3 kilometers before town.

Walk Across the Bridge Onto the Island and Exit Tajikistan

Bridge at Ishkashim Border, Afghanistan-Tajikistan Border, Adventures of Nicole

At the bridge there’s a small building where you’ll go through exit immigration formalities to leave Tajikistan.

I got a little haranguing at this point in the process because there was no entry stamp on my Tajik e-visa. I had entered the country in Khujand and for whatever reason, they didn’t stamp the e-visa paper (I’m guessing because it’s a place that doesn’t see as many foreign entries, or just that it seems every Tajik border crossing or entry point has its own version of “necessary procedures” in which they can usually justify asking for a bit of baksheesh to correct–ie: the Qolma Pass still handing out and wanting migration cards) but there WAS/IS a stamp in my passport.

Check out what it was like to travel the Afghan Wakhan as a woman

Now Walk Across to Afghanistan

On the Afghan side, you’ll enter another small office where you’ll show your passport and get stamped into the country. They may search your bags upon entry as well. After entering Afghanistan on the other side of the island you’ll walk across the bridge and into the country.

Getting to Sultan Eshkashim

Eshkashim Bazaar, Eshkashim, Wakhan Corridor, Afghanistan, Adventures of Nicole

To get to Afghan Eshkashim it’s a 5 kilometer journey down a dirt road from the border. If you haven’t arranged prior transport the border guards will call a taxi for you from Eshkashim at a staggering $20 for the short ride (though if you want to save money, you can always walk). But congrats, you’ve made it— you’re officially in Afghanistan!

You’ll most likely be brought to the well known Marco Polo Guesthouse, just up a hill from the main bazaar. Rooms including meals will come in at $30/night. You’ll surely meet guides that do trips into the Wakhan Corridor here, who can help you arrange your trip if need be.

See the Afghan Wakhan in Photos

Traveling Further into the Wakhan Corridor

Great Pamir, Wakhan Corridor, Afghanistan, Adventures of Nicole

If you’d like to go beyond Eshkashim into the Wakhan Nation Park and Corridor you’ll need to get permits from police before leaving the village. Unless you can read and speak Dari you’ll need the help of a local to do this for you. Most guides will charge a flat $50 fee for this.

If planning to travel into the corridor you’re *supposed* to take a tourist taxi. A one way trip from Eshkashim to Sarhad e Broghil to access the Little Pamir comes at a staggering $300-350 (or $600-700 return). There are shared taxis that make this trip for locals for far less, however, you may run into problems at checkpoints and will likely have to pay off baksheesh (bribes) to continue on.

Most who will travel into the Great & Little Pamir will employ the help of local guides (they’ll find you in Eshkashim before you find them) who know the trails and can translate conversations with the local people for you. I traveled with Malang Darya on my Wakhan Corridor trip that I arranged on the spot.

Crossing from Afghanistan to Tajikistan

It’s essentially the same process outlined above just in the reverse direction. It was smooth sailing for me, plus all the Afghans that happened to be around the border (including soldiers) all excitedly posed for photos when they found out I had a camera.

The only problem this posed was that we all spent so much time goofing around at the border on the island that I missed all the shared taxis headed back to Khorog that day, so I had to spend a night in Tajik Ishkashim at the Hanis Guesthouse.

Planning to spend some time in Tajikistan before or after the Afghan Wakhan? Read the Tajikistan Travel Guide for ideas

Getting Out of Tajik Ishkashim

Yamchun Fortress, Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan, Adventures of Nicole

To get away from the border you’ll need to either hitchhike or walk the 3 kilometers back to the village of Ishkashim (I hitched and had no issues). Alternatively, you could try to hitch the opposite direction back to Khorog.

In the morning, shared taxis depart the main road through Iskashim bound for Khorog. The last ones usually leave by about 10 am. There will also be shared taxis heading in the opposite direction for those planning to head further into the Tajik Wakhan.

Money Exchange

In Sultan Eshkashim on the Afghan side, there are money exchangers in the bazaar. USD seem to be the favored currency.

Since you’ll be coming back to Tajikistan you’ll likely still have some leftover Somoni or at very least USD (I really recommend making sure you do have some money leftover because I am unsure that the ATM in Ishkashim takes foreign cards).

Tajikistan-Afghanistan Border Crossing Hours

These are always subject to change, can close at a moment’s notice, and can be closed on holidays. I recommend checking with the PECTA office in Khorog when you arrive in Tajikistan for the most current days, hours, and holiday closures.

Tajik side: 8 am-12 pm and 2 pm-4 pm.

Afghan side: 9 am-11:30 am and 2 pm-4 pm.

The border is said to be closed on Sundays, sometimes on Fridays too.

I did have to wait to cross the border as the Ishkashim border crossing was closed for several days in celebration of Eid al Qurban.

Finally, About the Cross Border Market

There is a cross-border market in Ishkashim, though do note that as of January 2026, it still remains closed to foreign visitors. It takes place on Saturdays on the island in the Panj River between the two countries, technically belonging to Afghanistan. Many travelers like visiting this bazaar as it allows them to technically step on Afghan soil without the hefty price of the visa.

That said, the Ishkashim Cross Border Bazaar is frequently cancelled for reasons varying from political instability, outbreak of illness, holidays, etc. Sometimes the closure is unknown until the, evening before. So do make alternative plans, just in case.

Alternatively, there is the Tem cross-border market near Khorog next to the Sheghnan crossing on most Saturdays, though it is also subject to closures.

For those looking to dip a toe into Afghanistan, I’m sorry to report that this cross-border market does take place solely on the Tajik side of the river, but you’ll get to see Tajiks and Afghans trading and selling goods.

Safety in Tajikistan & Afghanistan

In general, crossing the Tajikistan-Afghanistan border crossing at Ishkashim is safe to do, when it is open, of course.

Afghan Wakhan Guides

If you want to travel further into the Wakhan Corridor employing a local guide to take you can be extremely helpful especially for translating. I recommend Malang Darya.

Looking for info about all the Tajikistan-Afghanistan border crossings? Check out my post on all the Tajik border crossings

Tips for the Ishkashim Border Crossing

Bring a stack of passport photos with you. You’ll need to hand over a few for various registrations for permits in Eshkashim. If you didn’t don’t sweat it, you can pay a few dollars to get all the copies you need.
There are no ATMs that I am aware of in Afghan Eshkashim. I recommend stocking up on cash (USD preferably) before leaving Khorog, but I would advise getting it in Dushanbe or Osh, depending on the direction you’re coming from. I ran into problems of not being able to get cash out of the ATM (ATMs in Khorog had no money in them) in Khorog and had to Western Union myself money before I went to the Afghan Wakhan.